Barricade breaching is one of the tactical driving techniques you will learn during BSR’s security driving course (SDC). It can be risky and so should be used as a last resort; high-speed backing or simply driving around the obstacle should be your first options. Tactical ramming is only really useful when a vehicle perpendicular (or nearly perpendicular) to you is blocking your path. Trying to push a vehicle from the front or back will result in you getting stuck; vehicle brakes are much more powerful than its engine!
Detecting the threat:
The first step in successful ramming is recognizing the threat. As I have mentioned before, recognizing pre-attack indicators and avoiding the attack is your best bet, but recognizing that you are under attack is a (distant) second best. Probably the best pre-attack indicator for a ramming situation would be someone “combat parked” slightly off to the side of your path. The classical combat parking job is someone sitting in their car backed into a parking space, engine running, in gear with the brakes on. They will often be looking at you and appear tense. This allows a potential attacker to move into position at a moment’s notice. However, in a disaster scenario the first indication you may have of an attack requiring a tactical ramming maneuver may be the cars blocking your path as you round a corner. That is one of the reasons situational awareness is so important: the sooner you see the threat the more options you have.
Initiating the Forward Ram:
Situational awareness is great, but if you find yourself in a situation where backing or avoiding the blocking vehicles is impossible you need to know what to do and where to ram. If the car pulled out in front of you, first determine the direction of travel. If the car pulled forward you will need to ram it at the back. Since the car was in a forward gear to begin with you will have to assume they are still in a forward gear and will need a second or two to reverse; ramming the front of the car may result in you getting stuck as the vehicle pushes you to the side. The opposite is true; if the car reversed in front of you, ram it on the front of the vehicle. If the car is stationary to begin with, aim for the light end, the end angled away, the end in the way of the best exit path or the end that is currently closest to being in your path.
Where to ram:
Your target is the front or rear wheel depending on the vehicle’s initial direction of travel; back wheel if it was last moving forward and front wheel if it was last moving backward. The axles are “hard points” that are less likely to deform due to the force of impact. This means you will transfer more of your energy towards moving the vehicle instead of deforming body work.
You want to hit the vehicle with the strongest point on the front of your car. For those of us with body-on-frame vehicles (almost all pickups, some SUV’s and older sedans like the Crown Victoria) this will be at the end of the frame rail. You should determine where this is on your vehicle but most of the time it is roughly under the “crease” in your hood. If not, find where it is and determine an aiming point on your vehicle for quick reference. The same spot (about 1/3 of the way over from the side of your fender) is fine for uni-body vehicles (most modern sedans, some SUV’s and a few pickups).
Whichever side of the target vehicle you ram, make sure the maximum amount of your vehicle is out of the way. For instance, if you are ramming the rear of a vehicle from its left side, use the left side of your bumper.
How to Ram:
Approach the target vehicle slowly, at about 15 MPH. This confuses the attacking vehicle (they may think you’re about to stop) and sets you up for the correct ramming speed. Start lining up far away from the vehicle, and at about one car length away floor the accelerator. It is useful to hold the gear shifter in place to keep it from popping out of gear from impact. If you follow this sequence the attacking car will be pushed out of the way but not with enough force to come back around and hit you. Once you have pushed your way through your attacker continue to drive to a safe place and make sure you aren’t being followed.
Ramming Myths:
Ramming will not cause a lot of damage to either vehicle if done using the proper technique. It is not a very violent maneuver, more of a push than a hard impact. Your airbag will most likely not go off and you will be able to complete the maneuver even if it does (I learned this first hand!). Under stress you may not even notice the airbag has gone off. Also, airbags are set off from deceleration, so if you accelerate through the attacking vehicle airbag deployment is less likely. Having power windows is nice because after an airbag deploys it fills the car with thick, choking and blinding dust. Also, make sure your car doesn’t have an impact fuel cutoff switch. Find some way to disable it if it does.
Final thoughts:
This maneuver reinforced my belief that a good tactical vehicle needs the following traits: body on frame design, automatic, with a good amount of power and weight. The Crown Victoria, Chevy Suburban/Tahoe and other similar vehicles have been popular as VIP and police vehicles for years because they have these traits. The body on frame design is more robust in tactical situations and is easier to fix when damaged. The automatic transmission simplifies maneuvers in that you don’t have to think to select a gear. Just floor the accelerator and you go. Power and weight are obvious helpers in a ramming situation, but ground clearance would also make more terrain drivable and can obviate the need for ramming in some situations. However, the most important thing to keep in mind (after the proper mindset of course) is situational awareness. This is also the easiest thing to forget or let slide. So in closing, this is not a maneuver that is cheap or easy to practice by yourself. I highly recommend professional training. Good luck, and stay safe!

















